Situated 10 miles from Scotland’s northeastern coast, the Orkney Islands are rich in historical significance, boasting sites like the renowned Neolithic village Skara Brae and the mesmerizing Ring of Brodgar – an ancient stone circle used for rituals and ceremonies. But my initial encounter with another notable prehistoric site on Orkney, the Maeshowe tomb, was underwhelming; it seemed like just a simple green mound encircled by a ditch.
Yet, this 5,000-year-old burial mound is a marvel of ancient craftsmanship and engineering, showcasing the ingenuity of Orkney’s early inhabitants. Particularly remarkable is the phenomenon that occurs for about three weeks on either side of the winter solstice, happening on 21 or 22 December each year.
In this period, the tomb’s slender entrance passage transforms into something extraordinary. It is precisely aligned with the setting sun during midwinter. As the last sunbeams of the day begin to fade around 15:10 during the darkest days of winter, a beam of light travels down the corridor, gliding over the tomb’s floor and casting a brilliant, golden illumination on the rear wall. This natural spectacle creates an ethereal effect, like a glowing portal to a mystical realm.
“The winter solstice is a pivotal time of year and Maeshowe represents thousands of hours of backbreaking work,” explained monument manager Phil Hopkins. “If you’re there when it works, when the sun sets at the right time, it’s awe-inspiring. There’s a hushed atmosphere, like when you’re in a cathedral.”
VISITING MAESHOWE
Maeshowe is open year-round, with particular interest around the winter solstice. Due to limited capacity, it is strongly recommended to book a tour online in advance.
Thousands of years ago, Maeshowe would have helped locals cope with the depths of winter. Since it would be dark for 18 hours a day, the startling contrast of the dark tomb being suddenly transformed would reassure them that the days would soon slowly start to lengthen. The light would have reminded them of the re-emergence of life on Earth in spring – and perhaps also the tantalising promise of eternal life in another world.
“It’s a very moving experience but it doesn’t require you to suspend belief. If nothing else, it shows you that you’re in a world that’s turning,” Hopkins said.
Ellie Shiel took a temporary job as a steward at Maeshowe 17 years ago and is still there, endlessly fascinated by the history that unravels around her. “I’ve only missed seeing the winter solstice here twice in that time and that’s because we were closed during Covid,” she said. “The experience is genuinely magical and no matter how many times I see it, it’s always different, with the sun hitting the wall differently and in varying strengths.”
She explained that while they are already fully booked for the 21 December tour, “the beauty of it is that you can come early or late December into January and still see it”.
THREE OTHER MONUMENTS THAT ALIGN WITH THE SUN
Newgrange cairn in Ireland was also built to align with the winter solstice; here the rising sun shines through a small opening in the roof.
Bryn Celli Ddu on the Welsh island of Anglesey is accurately aligned to the summer solstice. As the sun rises on the longest day of the year, sunlight shines directly down the tomb’s passageway to illuminate the chamber within.
Machu Picchu in Peru has a huge stone set at an angle of about 13 degrees northward. Normally the stone casts a shadow throughout the day but at exactly noon on the spring or autumn equinox date, the shadow disappears.
While Maeshowe is among the finest Neolithic buildings to survive in north-west Europe, its construction remains a mystery.
The 10m-long narrow entrance chamber is lined with massive stone slabs, while the central chamber is square and spacious, around 5m across, with huge standing stones – one in each corner – instantly drawing the eye. Some of these would have weighed more than three tonnes, and the effort involved to put them in place was almost unimaginable, especially since any tools were most likely fashioned from antlers. “It would have been such hard work transporting these beautiful huge stones possibly from as far as three miles away,” said Hopkins.
Even the work it would have taken to dig out the ditch surrounding the 7.3m-high and 35m-diameter mound seems improbable. “[The ditch is] 4m deep and carved out of solid rock by people without metal tools. What drove them to keep going, what was the how and why behind this?” Hopkins said.
The site has inspired a range of theories, with most archaeologists and historians believing it was either a place of ritual and religion or an astronomical centre to observe the skies. Humans have always looked to the stars for answers, both for guidance while travelling and to mark the passage of time; while religion and ritual gave cultures worldwide the security of faith, and the people of Orkney would have been no different, likely looking to their gods in the heavens.
While Shiel appreciates the spiritual aspects and beliefs around Maeshowe, she believes it was built to nurture community, a theory supported by the fact that different stones from all over the island were used to create the Ring of Brodgar that lies just two miles away. “Life was hard and it helped to have good relationships and help each other out,” said Shiel. “Life was more stable and secure that way, and while every culture has developed religion, you need more [than that]. Bonds and friendships, an annual gathering of all the tribes where you could trade or find a partner could naturally happen in the winter. You’ve made it through the worst of the year, you could come together and share food and look forward to the spring.”
Part of her fascination with Maeshowe is its timelessness. Something major inspired Maeshowe’s construction, and countless visitors today still find solace in seeing the sun flood the dark tomb with light. The end of the year is a traditional time to reflect and to ponder the future, both in this life – and perhaps the next. The winter solstice offers us the same comfort our ancestors looked for 5,000 years ago: shining a light when everything else is dark.